1. Noryangjin Fish Markets – very interesting markets with all sorts of sealife, go for dinner (and the lights make it more atmospheric instead of just smelly!), choose your seafood, buy it and then head on upstairs and have one of the many restaurants prepare it for you.
2. Walk along the city wall (views) and end up in a ‘moon village’, Iwha Meaul is my recommendation. Lots of fabulous murals and cute alleyways to explore.
3. Stay in a traditional house (hanok) and wander around Bukchon village.
4. Changdoekgung is the palace I would choose (there are 4!) as it is one of the most beautiful, and also has a fabulous garden. Some guidebooks say you must be on a tour, this was not my experience. However I did join a tour for the gardens as it added to it.
5. Watch the changing of the guards at Gyeongbokgung palace (no need to go inside if you don’t want to) every hour.